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Porchetta: origins and history

When talking about porchetta, the first thing that comes to mind is our slogan “true Italian pig”. Without mentioning the pig, whose history is full of anecdotes and endless curiosities, it is impossible to understand how important it has been in the evolution of man. King of pigs, the pig is a truly providential animal (in the most classic sense of Verga’s memory) among all those that human beings have included in their food and economic needs; an inexhaustible source of sustenance, and in itself endowed with an exceptional capacity for adaptation, which has allowed it not to suffer, but on the contrary to be an active part in the evolutionary process. Since the dawn of its existence, the pig was free to graze in the wild; later, in the Middle Ages, it began to live near homes, becoming a symbol of prosperity and of a thousand-year-old peasant civilization, which with pork has built a fundamental food resource and important dishes and recipes linked to the territory. Let us not forget the great variety of rites connected to the sacrifice of the animal, to the preservation and use of its meat. In fact, each community had methods for preserving and cooking its meat, with flavors from the area in which it lived. Pigs were a guarantee, for long periods of time (even a year) of subsistence for the whole family. A real godsend to avoid suffering from hunger, if not even becoming a key element of banquets and parties.

For the less wealthy classes, pork was the only meat available for a long time, also becoming an element of distinction between the poor and the rich: the latter, in fact, ate almost exclusively beef and game.

We then come to the Porchetta which, thanks to the pig, is a true protagonist of the table. In literature it can be found in the Odyssey, where great prominence is given to the swineherd Eumaeus, who keeps the pigs in an enclosure made of stones and poles and surrounded by thorns, to reserve them for the table of the Proci: the animals are presented cooked on a spit, after being quartered and sprinkled with barley flour.

Approaching lands closer to us, it is the case of the Etruscans, for whom pork was a superb delicacy, far superior to other animals: roasted on a spit, on a grill if consumed fresh, smoked or salted when it was intended for preservation. In ancient Rome it is found reworked and enriched with multiple fillings, presented on scenographic plates.